arrive at Edi Simčič Winery a few minutes early for my appointment. It’s quiet, and twilight colors the sky. I’m looking for winemaker Aleks Simčič, Edi’s son. Rolling down the concrete driveway, I park my bike between two buildings. I see a tractor, several empty grape bins, and a dog. After a few minutes, an […]
When I set off on this 2018 Eastern European Tour, I had no real plan except to search for the best stories in food, wine, and culture. I wanted to discover the truth about the region. Like me, most North Americans do not understand what is happening over here—my aim was to find out. Now […]
My timing for visiting Goriska Brda, the Slovenian wine region deserving much more worldwide recognition, is both good and bad. The good part is that the place is busy and bustling because it’s harvest time. And the bad part? The place is busy and bustling. My goal here is to gain a better understanding of […]
After a simple breakfast of fruit, fresh muffins, and homemade bread and jams, Tomaz fro Scurek picks me up and takes me to one of the steep vineyards where today his brother and crew and full-throttle into the harvest. Afterward, he brings me back to my bike, and I return to the Kabaj Guesthouse where […]
As I make my way to the Ščurek family estate, I pass acres of vineyards owned by Kabaj, and then round a corner passing the local cooperative. I then ride through the tiny village of Medana until I wind down a hill and park. It’s a modern facility, and though I hear voices and activity, […]
I’m good with directions, orientation, and geography. While I’m just about a thirty-five-minute ride from Moto Servis Tomi and Guesthouse Kabaj, I think I’m lost. Just moments ago I passed a sign reading “Welcome to Italy.” Wait. I am in Slovenia. At least I thought so. I tend to question the GPS when it makes […]
It’s after dark when I leave Gostilna Pecaric, but it’s a short ride to Guesthouse Bajc where Jure arranged accommodations. I take my things to a modest and comfortable room on the second floor before taking a seat in the restaurant downstairs. Instead of ordering from a menu, the waiter tells me what’s tasty and […]
With the traffic, steep hills, and snaking streets my bike continues to overheat as I try to get out of Italy. I ride for a few moments, then the temperature light glares at me. I pull over, let Doc cool down and motor again. Rinse and repeat. It’s frustrating. So before I can indulge in […]
After a cup of coffee and a few slices of cheese and toast, I pack up Doc and ride north. Climbing out of the small basin where the Port of Rijeka sits and I head north, glancing at the islands across the bay and beyond to the Istria Peninsula. Known for its truffles, crisp white […]
I’m told the friendliest people in Croatia are from Rijeka. With my exhaust, sparkling and sounding as if new, I decide to explore one more place before crossing the border between Croatia and Slovenia. Located at the Southern end of the Istria peninsula, Rijeka is a port town and the gateway to the islands of […]
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