Last night during my last supper here in Split, I honed down the growing grudge forming in my psyche. With Bokeria manager Marko shouting down the walkway after being turned away by the hostess, “fully booked.” They find a lone stool and seat me at the bar. Moments later, with a glass of chilled posip […]
I’m moving on and soon away from Split. With fewer kilograms to carry on my bike, I’ll feel peppier, more agile, and free. Right? So, F••k the hooligans who stole my things, it’s time to journey on. But before I motor on, I want to explore one of the most important and surviving Roman-era buildings […]
Today I wake up late. Perhaps I should train better for these all-nighters and hanging with locals until 4:30 AM evenings. I pull myself out of bed and down the stairs a little after noon. The sleep served me well. I feel good, energized and not slow at all. When I walk over to my […]
Though I would later regret my decision, I take the ferry from Trpanj to Ploce and ride to Split along the coast. Someone talked me out of taking the ship to Korcula, and then from there take another ferry to Split. “Are you here to ride or get ferried around in boats?” the local guide […]
For a small country, Croatia has so much for me to explore—and learn. Leaving Orebic in my rearview mirror behind, I head toward Dingač, the infamous and inhospitable wine region southeast of here. With my eye on research for my new book, I cannot leave the Peljesac peninsula until I’ve seen Dingac and its steep […]
I usually travel with no plans, no reservations, and no itinerary. So today after packing up, at the suggestion of Antonio and Sabina of the Holiday Adriatic Resort and Mikulic Boutique Winery, I motored my way northwest toward the end of the peninsula to Orebic where the Mikulic family operates a bouquet hotel and a […]
Mikulic Boutique Winery & Adriatic Holiday Resort Traffic and big trucks torment me as I wind my way back north to the Pelješac peninsula. Yesterday I connected with a young winemaker whose family for three generations crafted wine from the venerable Plavac Mali, a grape varietal only found here in Croatia. Since breaking through the […]
I catch the earliest water taxi to Dubrovnik. On the way, I pass the remnants of the Kupari Resort a former Yugoslavia military retreat that catered to the elite of the Yugoslav People’s Army. Built sometime between the two World Wars on prime real estate on a secluded beach just south of Dubrovnik. It was […]
Last night, the battery was still too weak to crank the engine after dinner. The good news is that there was a slight charge as the instrument and operating lights work. After breakfast, I recruited two bellhops who helped me push and jump start the bike. I didn’t need two, as with both pushing unevenly, […]
Sunbathers appeared on the docks below my room early this morning. The temperature is already pushing 80 degrees, and I haven’t had coffee. After a refreshing shower, I join the other guests eating breakfast on the patio outside. It’s not long before the waitress brings me coffee and with it a small plastic bag with […]
