Watching Syria’s War With Tears In My Eyes

Somehow I question the sincerity of the headline on this billboard, I took this photo in the summer of 2008. What’s happening to Syria? To the people of Syria. My friends in Syria. I wonder. And I cry. Why? Because Syria surprised me. Surprised me with thrilling and unexpected  joy—and filled me with wonder and […]

Goodbye Syria. Hello Turkey.

It was time. Sucked into the history, architecture, landscapes and people of Syria I made tracks for the Turkish border where before crossing I met a farmer and his kids herding goats down the road. Lots of smiles, hugs and questions but this would be my last contact with a Syrian on his soil until […]

Wandering Aleppo’s Old City

Perhaps I just like wandering around medieval towns. But Aleppo, and Damscus for that matter, take medieval to a new level. Europe’s history has always fascinated me, but the Middle East stretches the confines of what’s imaginable yet with the evidence surronding you, the reality seems even more implausable. So much I’m fascinated with the […]

All Good In Aleppo

It was a short but great ride through the foot hills, along the valley and into the city of Aleppo – which is equally as stunning and interesting as Damascus. I think I could stay here a while. Though finding my way around was a lot tougher. Dominating the skyline of the ancient city is […]

Crac Des Chavaliers

It’s actually hard to travel in Syria alone. Everybody wants to talk to me, share tea with me, introduce me to their children and ask questions. I find the hospitality to be on par if not more so than many of the supposedly “dangerous” places I’ve visited. Axis of evil? Oh, come on! With so […]

Faces & Places of Damscus, Syria

To get a flavor of Damascus I share with you some photographs I took while wandering the old city. How many people can you fit on a motorcycle. The answer might be found here in Damascus, Syria. Heading to the Mosque. Woman always must pray separate from the men, who are praying below. The ancient […]

Opening My Eyes & Mind To Damascus

When I travel to a new city, particularly one that is capital of the country I’m visiting, I tend to park the bike and walk, take mass transit or in the odd case I’m traveling far or on a time schedule I’ll take a taxi. This way I get some exercise and can seamlessly blend […]

Tea With Syrian Officials & My Shaky Landing In Damascus.

Staying up until after 11pm last night meant getting through the border this morning shoulda been a snap and there’d be no problem making Damascus before sunset. So with my official stamp in both my passport and carnet, I rode my motorcycle to the checkpoint at the border. Asked to pull Doc aside so other […]

Syrian Visa: Another Waiting Game

Getting out of Israel was a snap and all the immigration officials on both sides of the border played along with stamps or lack thereof so that a trip to Syria wouldn’t be hampered with any evidence that I’d been to Israel. Any time you can take a diversion for a trip into Salt is […]