With the traffic, steep hills, and snaking streets my bike continues to overheat as I try to get out of Italy. I ride for a few moments, then the temperature light glares at me. I pull over, let Doc cool down and motor again. Rinse and repeat. It’s frustrating. So before I can indulge in […]
After a cup of coffee and a few slices of cheese and toast, I pack up Doc and ride north. Climbing out of the small basin where the Port of Rijeka sits and I head north, glancing at the islands across the bay and beyond to the Istria Peninsula. Known for its truffles, crisp white […]
I’m told the friendliest people in Croatia are from Rijeka. With my exhaust, sparkling and sounding as if new, I decide to explore one more place before crossing the border between Croatia and Slovenia. Located at the Southern end of the Istria peninsula, Rijeka is a port town and the gateway to the islands of […]
I prefer not to ride when I’m staying in and exploring a city like Zagreb. So given its central location and neighbor to a number of foreign embassies, I decide to leave “Doc,” my motorcycle, at Logobola B&B, even though I’m staying with Stanka on the other side of town. Doobie offers me to join […]
With the sun setting over the Adriatic, I ride out of the coastal hills to Zadar, the fifth largest city in Croatia. Though there’s plenty to see in Zadar, I must move on to Zagreb, the number one and capital city of Croatia. Most of the reasonably priced hotels are fully booked, so I arrange […]
The ride from Šibenik east, into the coastal foothills near Skradin and Krka National Park takes me less than thirty minutes. I roll into the tiny village of Plastovo where standing outside his winery and smoking a cigarette I find Alen Bibich, the winemaker and proprietor of BIBICh Winery. I peel off my helmet, gloves, […]
At 4:15 AM the new ‘gentle’ wake up alarm on my iPhone sounds off. It’s still dark outside. The ferry leaves from the town of Vis at 5:30. It’ll take me fifteen to twenty minutes to get there. I pack up the rest of my things, do a “dummy check” of the apartment; looking under […]
Tonight marks night three here for me on Vis, and my fourth day wandering around the pleasant village of Komiza. The lighting storm turned to rain early this morning, which I thought would hinder my plans to take a boat out to Biševo Island to explore the mysterious blue cave. Just five miles, or about […]
There’s not much to do in Komiza, save day trips by boat to nearby islands, eating, drinking, and wandering the maze of walkways that creep up the hillside. Tour operators tout a short trip to an uninhabited island that has a unique ‘blue cave.’ I make a note to consider this excursion tomorrow morning. After […]
Last night during my last supper here in Split, I honed down the growing grudge forming in my psyche. With Bokeria manager Marko shouting down the walkway after being turned away by the hostess, “fully booked.” They find a lone stool and seat me at the bar. Moments later, with a glass of chilled posip […]
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